Review: One Table at HG

It’s a pretty fair assessment to say that Buenos Aires has grown in leaps and bounds in the gastronomic sense in the past year or so. Pop-ups, food truck(s), closed doors, supper clubs, cook-offs, themed tours … the list goes on. It might seem intimidating to a greenhorn when it comes to upping the ante, but the hard hitters know what’s up. Enter Hernán Gipponi, chef of the eponymous restaurant at the hip Fierro Hotel Boutique in Palermo Hollywood. HG has been dishing out one of the city’s best brunches for quite some time, not to mention their gourmet tasting dinners and festive garden “Thank Fierro It’s Friday” happy hours.

Enter a new concept, one that brings together the best of the best: Gourmet dishes, in a familiar and communal setting, with a unique touch that sets it apart from the rest. Enter One Table. HG’s cure for even the worst case of the Mondays (dinners are only hosted one night a week) will satisfy anyone from the most demanding of palates to those just looking for something new on the scene.

Seats around this table are limited, so you’d be a fool not to reserve your spot. Go alone, go with friends … go with an open mind and obviously an empty stomach. The idea is for the food to be shared among the diners in a casual and deconstructed way, which is a nice contrast of the high-level food you’re about to shovel into your gullet.

The menu – which changes constantly and in our case was a staggering nine courses – is hand written and signed by Hernán himself, and wines are paired accordingly (and served generously). Dishes are developed with what’s in season (claro) and feature the best of what the local market has to offer.

Perhaps the best part of the whole experience is watching Hernán and his skilled kitchen team prep, plate and serve the dishes tableside as they come out. Hell, he even finished cooking the hare on the table – a little smoky, but whatever, I’ll take it. As someone who has always envied those who can edge out their space in that realm of the food industry, it was fascinating to watch them work as such a well-oiled machine.

Of all the food we were served, it’s hard to choose a favorite. I love that HG always manages to sneak a huevo a baja temperatura in the mix, though the steak tartare and the heart (!!) with beans and mustard was a real treat. By the time the arroz bomba and liebre rolled around, I was in need of an auxiliary stomach to help me out. Everything was so delicious, so abundant, so full of love. Really. You could taste the love on the plate. Anyone who says otherwise is lying.

After a month-long and much-needed hiatus, One Table is back with a vengeance starting next Monday, August 12. Hurry up and make your res and get ready for one of BA’s best new dining experiences.

HG – Hernán Gipponi at the Fierro Hotel Boutique
Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood
One Table Dinners – Hosted on select Mondays, by reservation only
3220-6800

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