It’s almost April. Scary. But it’s also cool because April is the month of feriados here in Argentina. Woo-hoo! Too bad I’m poor and can’t afford to go anywhere. Luckily I was able to partake in a cooking class with Dan from Casa SaltShaker, “Squid + Octopus three ways.” We made a baby octopus confit, incredible non-breaded calamari (so much better than what restaurants usually serve) and baked squid that was out of this world. I died. Here is the photo of our creation. You can wipe the drool off now.
Welp, it’s officially autumn here in Buenos Aires. Anytime the temperature dips below 68 degrees, the boots, wool coats, scarves and other winter accessories magically make their way to the streets. Now that we’ve got hibernation on the brain, where should you go when you want to cozy up on a chilly day for a delicious meal?
I used to live in Belgrano and loved having Pura Tierra so close to my apartment. They serve gourmet regional cuisine, so imagine lots of dark woods, exposed brick, and low lighting. You’ll fill up on braised bondiola with honey-glazed apples, grilled llama, homemade pastas and delicious Argentine cheeses. This is an experience for the senses. Perfect for when you need to stay warm and dive into some impeccable regional food.
3 de Febrero 1167 – Belgrano – 4899-2007
Ok, I can’t not sneak in an Indian restaurant. But what’s better for warming up than a piping hot and spicy curry? Come on. Vrindavan isn’t new, per se, but it’s my newest favorite for its killer vindaloo and amazing discounts (40% with Club La Nación on Tuesdays). It’s located downtown, so you can sneak away from the office and dive in to rich kormas, fluffy basmati rice, and tons of other dishes that will rival what you’re used to back home. Service could be better, but you’ll be too busy drooling over your Chicken Tikka Masala that it won’t really matter.
Tucumán 874 – Downtown – 4328-9252
When in doubt, warm up with vodka. Or something like that. Olsen is ideal for a Saturday brunch/lunch out in the garden – they’ll bring you blankets to stay warm – or snagging a seat next to the fireplace for dinner. You’ll feel right at home among the clean Scandinavian lines (oh how I miss Ikea, natch) and the illuminated bar. And the vodka. Don’t forget the vodka.
Gorriti 5870 – Palermo Hollywood – 4776-7677
Usually when the cold weather hits, I up my pasta intake by about 300% No shame here. It’s like my body flips out without a steady diet of carbs. I love Sette Bacco since it’s completely unassuming on a side street in Recoleta but insanely beautiful at the same time. A repurposed old family home, Sette Bacco serves up melt-in-your-mouth pastas, risottos, and meat dishes. Order that grilled molleja salad to start, it’s heaven on a plate. Tables are tucked into every nook, so don’t be scared to ask to see what’s available upstairs. It’s perfect for a homecooked meal when you don’t want to do any of the cooking.
Agüero 2157 – Barrio Norte/Recoleta – 4808-0021
This might be a no-brainer, because all I want to do on a gray Sunday afternoon is spend three hours eating the most amazeballs gourmet brunchy bites available in Buenos Aires. What’s nice is that it’s reservation only (you’ll probably know half of the people there), and the dining room takes on this personal feel that makes it easier to brave the windchill once you leave. Get ready for inventive eggs, exotic fruits, and more taste explosions. Book a table next to the window and pretend you’re outside, when we all know you have 2 pairs of socks and three t-shirts on.
Soler 5862 – Palermo Hollywood – 3220-6800
Fall is finally here in Buenos Aires, and everyone seems to be invigorated by the crisp air. We’re no longer forced to sweat like pigs (just me? ok) before mid-day, and it’s such a relief to breathe easy. As such, I’m planning some autumnal dishes that make me want to curl up and hibernate. So let’s start with the classic of all classics. Tomato soup and grilled cheese. Better known as, my childhood.
Photo Credit: The F-Word
This year, 1 in 3 days are either holidays or weekends here in Argentina. Oh Cristina, you know how to pull at the voting strings of your electorate – give them insane amounts of time off! Oui. Next month there are three long weekends alone (I love April) – how do you plan to take advantage? Pack those bags and head east – Punta del Este in the off-season is a dream. Continue reading
Due to my laziness and lack of planning, this post is a hodge-podge of upcoming events and other random Buenos Aires bits. Enjoy.
St. Patrick’s Day in BA – The day when Argentines suddenly “discover” their Irish roots and trash the Kilenny, Downtown Matías, and the entire length of Reconquista downtown, toppling telephone poles and throwing up Fernet. After four years in Boston, (and zero Irish heritage), it’s not my favorite holiday, but things are looking up. Magdalena’s Party in Palermo Soho (at Thames & Costa Rica) will be serving up Shepherd’s Pie (nom) and AR$20 pints of Heineken all night. You’re guaranteed a good time, no matter what day of the year, so I can only imagine that St. Patrick’s day will be a rager. You can also spend 48 hours chugging beer at the Isenbeck Beer Festival in Palermo. Tickets are AR$50 and available through Ticketek. There will be live music both tonight and tomorrow and obviously tons-o’-beer. Click the link for more info + tickets. (And for some perspective, how about this? It’s more expensive to celebrate here than it is in Dublin?! Read the article)
Brisket in BA – Perfect for your March 17 hangover. Head to The Office in Las Cañitas (for one of its last appearances before it goes down in history!) this Sunday to scarf down some brisket made personally by Larry from El Tejano hot sauce. This guy is from Texas and he knows what’s up. Seriously. Some of the best sauce around. Follow the link for all event details.
Craft Beer Night – Also held at Magdalena’s Party, this event is in a couple of weeks (March 29) and will be hosted by beer expert & Argentina Independent contributor Aaaron Brown. For just AR$100 a person, you’ll get three artisan Argentine beers and plenty of finger food to soak it up. Aaron will give you some beer history, talk about how it’s made, and run down all of the different kinds of beer. BEER BEER BEER! This would be a fun date or just something random to do with friends. Mark it down.
Run Down of Various Gourmet and Organic Markets/Ferias – Renowned women’s magazine Ohlala! (I hope you can feel the sarcasm from here) published a handy guide to different fairs and markets around Buenos Aires. Why not switch up your Saturday routine and head to the Mercado del Progreso in Caballito, BA’s oldest? (Founded in 1889). Click here for the article.
Yanquis Don’t Go Home – TRIUMPH! VICTORY! Argentines may love making fun of America (or acting like they aren’t all dying to hop on a plane and buy everything they can in New York or Miami), but the Amurican food traditions established here in recent years are here to stay. NOLAChef, Fuudis, POKE, The Office, Quiero Bagel, Magdalena’s Party and more are featured in this month’s printed issue of Planeta Joy magazine. Click here to read it online.
Photo Credit: The Argentina Independent
Happy Friday once again, everyone! Inspired by the post on BA Delivery (and an article in La Nación, if you read Spanish) about the increasing shortage of golden nuggets like Chilean salmon and other fish used in sushi, I’ve decided to continue the suffering. Restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro is the only one to have been awarded 3 Michelin stars. Its chef is 85 years old (and a total badass por supuesto) and diners lucky enough to eat there pay $400 a person to be served just 20 pieces of sushi. Think food porn in its purest expression, at its most simple and refined – The documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” was released last week, so today’s post will be Photo + Trailer to really get you drooling. Makes you wish you could just hop on a plane to Tokyo right now, doesn’t it?
Photo Credit: Eater